Godey's
Ladies' Treasury

Chitchat Upon New York and Philadelphia Fashions,  Godey's Lady's Book and Magazine, December 1860

The subject of our plate naturally leads us to a few items on bridal costumes, although we have given them an unusually full illustration. We are told by the best authorities, that the attempt to introduce white velvet as a wedding-dress has entirely failed, as such an outré idea should have done. Heavy plain and reps silks have driven satin from its late general favor, and are once more dividing the honors; in fact, nothing can be more simple, maidenly, and suitable. If richness is required, it can be made up to any extent in the garniture of lace, as will be seen in our paragraph upon laces. White jasmine, white roses and buds, are always suitable with orange flowers; but when the wreath is simply a long cordon, or when the cordon crosses the brow, it is oftenest of buds. The round or coronal wreaths are growing in favor, and admit of larger flowers, but are not becoming to all faces.

Mr. Brodie's bridal cloaks, of white cassimere, lined with richly quilted satin, and of various styles and designs, are models of the wrap required at weddings in church, at this season of the year. In fact, few ladies in town, who go out much in public, can dispense with a sortie de bal at once warm, light, and festive in its style. Pink, maize, blue, rose, and scarlet cashmere are all used in their manufacture -- but more generally white is preferred, with the trimmings and linings of one of their shades. The general use of gold in cords, tassels, and ornaments of all escriptions finds its appropriate place in evening dress, and wraps of this kind intended for the evening.

Speaking of garniture, we notice, among the cloaks recently displayed in Mr. Brodie's sales-room, a rich crochet and fringe trimming crossing the back of an elegant mantle in two deep festoons, as if bordering a pointed pelerine and cape, falling above, and at the line of the waist, but it is not attached at all - except at the shoulder - and is intended to lie thus easily, without the least awkward or unfinished effect. We notice it as a novelty of the season.

The richest velvet cloaks produced at this establishment are lined with black or violet satin, and quilted in diamonds scarcely an inch long. The square sleeves, looped back with an ornament, so as to display a fall of elegant guipure lace, and thus entirely change its shape, is a general favorite. There are symptoms of a return to shawl-shaped pelerines, to be trimmed with heavy passementerie or guipure. The selections of both these trimmings used by Mr. Brodie the present season are unsurpassed by any American manufacturer in richness and elegance.

But does not the fashion of mantles and cloaks affect the sale of shawls?

We asked the question in the shawl room of Arnold & Co. when the purchases of the firm from the East India Company, London, were being displayed. Never have we seen a nicer display of these coveted treasures. To begin with the scarves which are very moderate in price the present season. A neat scarlet scarf, for the neck only, at $7; a Delhi scarf, for the shoulders, green, with richly wrought ends, at $15. The Delhi scarves and shawls are much the cheapest of the India shawls. The centre is precisely the same as in those known simply as camel's hair; the border is far les expensive, but this style is gaining in popularity, and is the only decided novelty the present season in scarves. In square shawls, we saw some excellent styles, ranging from $50 to $250, ladylike and very desirable. In long shawls, the value rises from the last named price to $1000 and $1200; one at $1200 was sold the day of the opening, and we saw three at $1000 it would be difficult to select from. The border in these formed the shawl itself; the centre being a medallion scarcely larger than a pocket-handkerchief, and when folded only appearing on the left shoulder; in richness and freshness of coloring they outrivaled the French manufacturers of the latest date; though we were shown others sufficiently faded and cleaned to satisfy the sharpest amateur as to its genuineness. We acknowledge to a weakness for camel's hair shawls and for laces - which an experience of twelve years as the editress of this department has never satiated - and enjoyed examining a superb variety of laces, immediately afterwards, in the same establishment, which is celebrated in these two respects. Sets of point d'Aguille and point Alençon from $15 to $125, and point Duchesse in the loveliest designs and combinations. The Duchesse is much softer than either of the others; in delicacy in resembles the Mechlin of our grandmothers, though it excels that in richness.

Nothing could exceed the beauty of a shawl in which the Duchesse and a flat point are combined - belonging to a set of flowers, bertha, and lace for sleeves - valued at $1600; the shawl alone is complete at the present time, but one might well afford to defer a wedding-day, for the sake of the rest. The central bouquet of roses, with fine flowers and foliage, is unsurpassed in grouping and accuracy of finish; and frost-work could be the only comparison for the delicacy of the entire design. We doubt if the bride is yet betrothed who is to be made happy by their presentation; if so, another golden wedding must be in prospect.

At a private view of bonnets imported and manufactured by Mrs. Scofield, Broadway, we noted a pale green velvet hat; the front drawn, the curtain covered by a fall of blonde, deep and pointed in the middle. Under the brim there was no cap, but a plaiting of white ribbon edged with blonde. Moss rosebuds in clusters were the decoration of this hat.

A dress hat of velvet, the hue rose des Alpes, the very lightest shade of the fuchsia color so much talked of, which is a groseille tint after all. The front is of velvet, and the flat crown piece, between the tow, is a drawn insertion of thulle, forming what is properly the crown. There is a rich plume to the left, with bells of the fuchsia, in the same tint as the velvet mixed with gold. Inside the brim, a light bonnet cap of thulle and blonde; in the centre a bow of white ribbon, from which a fold of the same velvet was carried down the left of the face, forming a little rosette on the temple, and from there passing between the ruches of the cap to the chin. Broad whit ribbon strings; on the ends a rich knot of black lace embroidered, and apparently tied with a bow and flowing ends of fuchsia-colored ribbon. Bridal hat of white velvet, with an insertion of thulle drawn with threads of gold between the brim and crown piece, which was covered by a thulle embroidered in knots. The ornaments were brides of velvet.

Every possible shade of velvet, cut and uncut, is to be found in bonnets the present season; for general service, the rich dark shades of blue, green, crimson, brown, etc., and above all black, enlivened by appropriate strings, trimmings, etc. in the interior, and velvet flowers or trimmings, etc, in the interior, and velvet flowers or plumes, or a barbe of velvet, or velvet and black lace. The shade known as fuchsia is the only marked color, and of this the best people are already wearied, as they are of gilt ornaments, from its endless combination with black the past autumn. Gold-color and salmon are very effective as a relief, and still popular.

The fuchsia and gold cord, or lace, have still great favor in children's hats, which are almost entirely round. At Genin's, so long noted for its drawn and quilted bonnets for misses, these last are discarded entirely, though the same good taste and thoroughly good materials for which Mr. Genin's manufactures are always distinguished, are noticeable in the various felts, beavers, velvet, and corded silk hats which are to be found at the old well-know saloon in the St. Nicholas building.

For the hosiery, worsted goods, boots, children's shoes, etc. so well appreciated by the old customers of Genin's, we must turn the corner of Canal Street and Broadway, to the Bazaar, 303, where well-known faces preside over a neat and cheerful establishment. From Mr. Bowden of the shoe department, we learn that thick waking boots for ladies are universal this winter, and no one will be required by elegance of fashion to shiver along in thin soles. We have examined three or four styles of buttoned boots, and cong4ress boots with heels and soles a half inch thick, lined with cloth, Canton flannel, or flannel, and costing from $4.50 to $6.50. Also an excellent kid-dressed walking-boot, with heel and double sole, lighter, and less expensive. Buttoned cloth gaiters (not boots), coming well above the ankle, are among Mr. Bowden's new styles for the winter season.

Here also we find the pretty Zouave worsted jacket for little girls, to be worn in the house, or under a loose sacque or cloak in the street. The display of new rigolettes, infant's caps, scarves, etc. in worsted is excellent. The chief novelty in these goods is a crocheted worsted round hat, over a frame; we do not think it will be popular, as it takes away the warmth and elasticity which make knit or crochet articles of dress valuable. Mr. Myers' infants' and fanciful children's hats are  in every possible variety He has some charming hats for little girls, of the new shape, " the Shepherdess" and "Di Vernon's" having had their day. The present shape is an improvement upon the "Mushroom" of last year, their brim turning down like it, but being slightly full, it loses the stiffness and characterized that style. Bands of rich, bright velvet, with a rosette of velvet and black lace, and a centre of jet, gilt, cut steel, and a plume de coque, heron's plume, curled ostrich with a velvet stem or the richer Bird of Paradise, turn back from this rosette t the right of the brim, dropping gracefully toward the shoulder.

Fashion.

Ladies' Treasury: An Illustrated Magazine of Entertaining Literature, education, Fine Art, Domestic Economy, Needlework, and Fashion, London, December 1860

According to promise, we direct our attention to the subject of evening and ball dresses likely to be in request  ere long. But, in the first instance, we must be allowed to caution those among our readers who have been wearing their dresses up to the throat, and even resorted to knitted or woven jackets, as protection from cold, against the imprudence of suddenly assuming a light, fashionable low dress, in order to appear to advantage at some gay Christmas or New Year's party. On no account run such a risk, but rather line the body (made of any light material you have selected) with sarsenet or Persian, corresponding in colour with the trimmings, and let your dress be what is called montante.

We now proceed to describe a few stylish, pretty dresses. Prudence must direct our readers as to the adoption of the high or three-quarter body.

For ladies with fair complexions and light hair, a dress of sky-blue gauze, with a double skirt, over a white silk slip; the upper skirt looped up on the left side with a bunch of blue convolvulus and gold leaves. In the hair, a wreath to correspond, and a bouquet, resembling that placed on the upper skirt, in the front of the bodice.

Or a white tarletane dress; the skirt covered with narrow flounces, each trimmed with a ruche of white tulle; the body ornamented in the same manner. As a head-dress, a wreath of pink moss roses, en diadéme.

Or a dress of white crépe, trimmed round the skirt with three bouillons, each of which should be cross-barred with narrow black velvet. As head-dress, a wreath of lilies-of-the-valley.

Organdi is a material especially suited for the dresses of young girls who have not been introduce.

Dresses of organdi, with double skirts, over white sarsenet, and trimmed with quillings of white, pink, or blue satin ribbon, form an elegant style of dress for vacation balls, and, for such occasions, la coiffure en cheveux is preferable to any other. Where sashes are worn, they should correspond in material with the ribbon used for trimming.

To return to general directions about evening dresses. For a fair person, with a very rosy complexion, we advise the selection of apple-green tulle over white silk. The dress should be made with two skirts, and a wreath of apple blossom with leaves should be carried from the waist, and from left to right, terminating on the hem of the upper skirt. The body should be trimmed with blond, and bunches of apple blossom at the back of the head would form an appropriate head-dress.

For a dark beauty, amber is remarkably becoming. Let the dress be of amber tulle over amber satin; the trimming, three deep tule flounces; the head-dress, a wreath of dahlias of various colors, with silver frosted leaves.

Or a brunette may wear a dress of white lace, the upper skirt looped up with crimson roses mounted with gold leaves. The body trimmed with the same, and a diadem wreath of red roses and gold leaves in the hair.

For a young married lady, whose hair is dark, we recommend a silk of pale primrose, with lace flounces, and a bertha to correspond. A silve4r wreath forms the most becoming coiffure with the dress just described, and diamonds may be worn as ornaments.

Pink tarletane is a cheap and becoming material for evening dresses, whether for ladies of fair or dark completion. The same remark applies to white tarletane

Magenta tulle or gauze should be worn over white satin, and the head-dress should be composed either of gold or silver, in the form of a wreath. If the Magenta dress white flowers are preferred, they should be of a very delicate kind; for instance, white lilac, bunches of white violets, or white rosebuds, and green leaves should be introduced to give relief.

Although jeweler is not necessary for young people, earrings and bracelets are allowable, and even necklaces, that had long been discarded, are again in fashion.

A dress of mauve tarletane, very thin and fine, covered with pinked flounces of the same material would suit a fair lady. The body three-quarter high, trimmed with a ruche of mauve tulle. Round the head a diadem wreath of roses noisettes.

As a general remark, we may observe that tarletane, Organdi, and tulle are less adopted by married ladies than single ones. Satins, silks, laces, and jewels, are patronized by the former; lighter materials with flowers, by the later; but, whether for the married or single, the diadem form prevails in the head-dress. For the back of the head, flowers and lace are sometimes mixed.

As a novelty in coiffure, a coloured tulle ruche, wide in front, narrower at the sides, and then wide under the back comb, is a style at once simple and elegant.

Gold combs are again in vogue, but not for the front hair. They are worn behind, with hanging drops either of jewels or gold.

For a chaperone, the prettiest coiffure for the ball, or evening assembly, is composed of black velvet, en diadéme. On the point in front should be placed a star or crescent of precious stones, and on one side a dropping feather, either white, or of a colour corresponding with the general tone of the dress. This feather may be tipped with gold.

The trimming, called the plastron, is a la mode for in-door dresses, and it is applicable to almost every material. The plastron of black velvet on taffetas antique, of any rich colour, is extremely stylish in effect.

The elegance of the black moire (another favorite material) depends on the choice of the trimming worn with it. With a bouillonnée of green silk, and a ruche of black guipure for trimming, black moire shows off a fair beauty to advantage. The sleeves should be tight, and have puffs of apple-green silk at the top. This toilette is highly suggestive of the costume du moyen dge - a style of dress which our modistes are ever and anon reproducing under one form or another.

Chicoree ruches are seen as trimmings for Zouave jackets, and it is a fashion of trimming likely to prevail this season.

Pierot buttons and embroidery en soutache are novelties to which we must direct our readers' attention.

Multitudinous narrow flounces still prevail; of this we give an instance in the centre figure of our illustration (page 381). The material of the dress is Organdi. The ample cloak is of blue cashmere, embroidered with gold and black velvet. The head-dress is a wreath of white jonquils, with gold centers. It is in the diadem shape.

Some fashionable cloaks are confined at the waist; others, have a small pelerine a little below the shoulders. The material of the cloak may be violet velvet; the trimming of passementerie. It should be worn with a dress of taffetas antique of the fashionable Havanne colour. For this dress the best trimming is ermine; and the muff of the same costly fur. The bonnet of black velvet; the strings and bavolet of Magenta taffetas; the flours, and ruche across the forehead, are of the same colour.

The bonnet of figure 2 in plate, page 381, is of emerald green velvet; the feathers, strings, flowers, and bavolet correspond in colour. The paletôt is of brown velvet; it is fully trimmed with lace. The dress is of silk; the mauve tint predominating.

A child's dress that might serve as a model costume for little boys from four to eight, and for any of those who are looking forward to that part in the juvenile gatherings so frequent at this season of the year, should be the Russian tunic and trousers of purple velvet embroidered with silver; but the colour of the velvet and of the embroidery is a matter of taste. Of little girls, the simpler the dress the better. Frocks and trousers of muslin or Organdi, with sashes of some delicate colour, such as pale-blue, rose-pink, lilac, or apple-green; the hair, if ling gathered up behind in a net, corresponding in colour with the trimmings of the dress.

The opera or evening cloak is now of very ample dimensions. The cottage hood, or hood á la vielle, is in favour. This hood is useful as well as ornamental; it should protect the ears and throat from the sudden change of temperature experienced in passing from the crowed assembly or concert room into the cold hall or passage.

Jackets of Llama, lined with flannel and white or coloured taffetas, sometimes supply the place of cloaks. In pink, blue, or lilac, with shawl trimming, they have a picturesque Eastern effect. This sort of jacket can be worn at home, with und3ersleeves of the same material. These jackets are cut rather in the polka than Zouave fashion; they have hanging sleeves, and they close over the chest. But the Garibaldi jacket is the gem of the season. Of this jacket the sleeves are puffed towards the wrist, but partly covering this puff is a military-looking cuff. The material of the jacket is scarlet cashmere; or it may be made in Llama of the same brilliant and seasonable colour - a colour which is not only recommendable for its beauty, but also because it can be worn with any other colour. The Garibaldi jacket is trimmed with gold braid.

With the description of a few stylish bonnets, and with a list of the materials most in vogue, we must conclude this somewhat lengthy notice.

A Havanne velvet bonnet with a black lace barbe fastened on the right side, with a large pink rose and buds and leaves. Inside a bandeau of black lace and pink roses; Havanne satin strings.

A black velvet bonnet; a black tulle barbe, half covering in its folds little bunches of Bengal placed on the pass to the right. A long black ostrich feather carried from the left side round to the right, and resting on the bavolet, which is of black velvet. Inside, Bengal roses en diadéme; strings of light pink taffetas.

A Magenta velvet bonnet, with a loose satin crown of the same colour. A velvet plaque of Magenta; a black lace voilette; a plume of Magenta ostrich feathers on the left side. White tulle ruches inside; strings of Magenta gros de Naples. As general remark, the bonnets are  large; they advance in front, but fly off at the sides.

The fashionable materials for dresses are poplin de Laine in large plaids, reps with wide stripes downwards, foulards de Laine in dark grounds, with small bunches of flowers, and a new stuff called Turin velvet. This is composed of silk and wool; it closely imitates terry velvet.

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