Godey's
Ladies' Treasury

Chitchat Upon New York and Philadelphia Fashions,  Godey's Lady's Book and Magazine, November 1860

With the abundant and full designs of cloaks given in the present number, little would appear to remain for the pen to describe. We would call particular attention to The Clotilde (see page 392), as one of the favorite styles, brought out by Brodie the present season, now that the time has come for superseding the Bedouin wraps in brilliant or delicate stripes, which he has made so popular by their tasteful variety of color and ornament the present autumn. At the South they will probably be worn much later in the season, as suitable to the climate. The small pointed yokes, which were an afterthought in the autumn manufactories, add much to the comfort and elegance of this mantle, which, though correct as to costume , is shapeless enough in its original form. These yokes are of silk, to suit the prevailing tint in the stripe -- say tan d'or, or prettily quilted in a diamond pattern; a facing and cording of the same extends down the front. We do not consider the Bedouin a graceful garment, except when worn as a sortie de bal, for which it is properly intended. It owes its popularity to a freak of fashion. It is an odd occurrence that it should have remained quietly on Mr. Brodie's list of styles over one season, while he demurred as to its introduction, but once manufactured, its popularity has proved that the public seek variety and novelty as well as true grace and elegance.

Among Mr. Brodie's importations we notice a rich casque, or basquine in corded silk, particularly suited to the South, where velvet must from its weight have a short season. It has a pelerine, and as a noticeable novelty, a sleeve in the Francis 1st shape. The trimming is a rich gimp, with a fall of guipure lace. This style is quite as costly as velvet, the one we describe ranging over $100.

In all the manufactures of this house for winter, whether in cloth, reps, or velvet, black is the leading color; but the French begin to tire of it, and we notice among the best garments in their importations linings and facings of white or mauve silk or satin. We noted an ample cloth wrap of a style that gave the appearance of a large circular cape falling from the shoulder; the only trimming a row of purple silk buttons down the front, a double row of stitching in purple all around, and a facing several inches in depth, of purple silk, which was plainly visible with every motion of the wearer. Other mantles in velvet were corded with a large mauve silk core, others again in white satin. The last is open to the objection of soiling too readily, besides being a strong contrast; the first is really a good change, and not all proncé.

Flat braids and cords, with oval buttons covered in silk, crochet ornaments and fringe in new designs, and guipure lace above all, are the favorite trimmings employed by Mr. Brodie. The square sleeve is one of the best styles in velvets, and the hollow plaits are drawn more closely to the waist behind than in the cloaks of the past season. We shall describe new garments from this large magazin des modees from time to time.

Crossing Canal Street, we find that the richer silks at Arnold, Constable, & Co.'s are the same in general style as those to be seen in every elegant shop in Chestnut Street or Broadway, with some of course imported expressly by this house. One is almost bewildered by their variety and elegance. In plain colors, all varieties, from the richest reps, that is almost uncut velvet, and almost a yard in width, to the narrow Mantua a $1 a yard. The best shades are mauve, tan d'or, sea green, rich shades of purple, crimson, from true groseille to deep plain color, all the modes, and some of them are sufficient to tempt one to join "the meeting," and make them a perpetual wear. For evening, pearl and lilac, and ashes of rose, turquoise blue and beach-blossom, maize, and salmon color. Maize, or as it really is gold color, with either of the tints mentioned, are also figured with rich shades of color, either carmine that is the embroidered figure in a single tint, or in a variety as the case may be.

We note a rich black ground, with small interlacing rings at intervals, in two shades of green, one of gold, one of Magenta crimson. Nothing could be richer or more harmonious. The brocaded or Jacquard figure, on a plain ground, is the feature of the season, and their variety in color and design is endless and dazzling. The wholesale silk department of Arnold & Co. is like passing through a picture gallery, one does not know where to choose. Black, a dark bright green, tan d'or, or golden russet, maroon, plum, purple, are some of the favorite grounds, from which roses bloom and pansies flush, and richly fretted arabesques glow in purple and gold.

Besides these there are down stripes in strongly contrasted colors, and shades of color, black and gold predominating, and the largest choice we have seen for a long, long time in all black silks, striped, corded, figured, moiré in stripes of large and fine watering, and a black silk dress is to a wardrobe as a ham is to housekeeping, always to be depended on.

As to making up, gored dresses will have greater favor, and for those who do not look well in them, the plastroon front, in great variety, offers nearly the same effect. Sleeves tight, with two puffs at the top, puffs graduated in size from the shoulder to the wrist, being largest at the elbow, precisely of the shape worn twenty years ago; sleeves shaped to the arm with a jockey above, and a turned-up cuff below, as in Fig. 4 (steel plate); loose sleeves with a pointed revers, as in Fig. 2 (steel plate) [see illustration below, ed.]; bell-shaped with pointed cuff and jockey, as in Fig. 1; all these have their advocates and admirers. Cordings of silk, the color of the principal shade in the dress, or of black, if it be a plain shade, with buttons to correspond, will be much used; daisy buttons of new styles, fan-shaped ornaments of ribbon and lace, lozenges of passementerie and lace, and many other styles of dresses, whether gored or en plastroon. Flat old-fashioned gimps, and braids of cord are revived, and a variety of chenille, crochet, and passementerie ornaments, with buckles and buttons in gilt, steel, pearl, and jet are used.

We have left no room for bonnets, except to say that the shape is much the same as the best French straws of the past season, wide at the ears, and rather pointed at the top (see Fig. 3 steel plate). The flowers and plumes surrounded by exquisitely imitated moss, as velvety and fresh as the heart could desire. The berries and fruit are also excellent, particularly the grapes, black currents, sloes, etc.

Fashion.

Ladies' Treasury: An Illustrated Magazine of Entertaining Literature, education, Fine Art, Domestic Economy, Needlework, and Fashion, London, November 1860

Fashion has not recently introduced anything strikingly new in walking dresses. The mantle in most general use is the paletôt. Of this, the material may be either cloth or silk; but the bournous is not considered antiquated, and it may be worn either with a round or square hood. The mantle and bournous have not trimmings to correspond in colour with the material, but to contrast with it. Llama shawls are not yet discarded.

A very pretty novelty for in-door dress has assumed the form of a négligé. The négligé may be made of cachmire, or of a less costly material. This style of dress has plaits at the waist, and by way of originality, it has a small pointed hood, finished with a bow of ribbon. If this déshabille be in cachemire, it should be trimmed with bands of quilted silk, of some bright colour. The cachemire itself should be of an undecided tint. 

The tight sleeve is again á la mode.

The Zouave jacket must now be wadded.

Skirts are trimmed en tabliers, which are covered with numerous frills or flounces. This style we recommend to ladies who are petite in stature, as it adds to the apparent height. For silk dresses, flounces are still the favorite ornament.

Passementerie is in great request for mantelets, and large buttons called macarons, trimmed round with lace, are adopted for simple dresses and for redingotes.

Dresses open in front are in favor; and the paletôt style of dress, which necessarily introduces a loose fit about the waist, is likely to prevail.

Poplins, cachemire, and silk, are favorite materials; and the fashionable colours are Magenta, gray, green, and pensée. Black and Havanne will be in vogue as the season advances.

For walking dresses -- we do not mean for the crowded promenade, but for walking out, for the sake of exercise -- fashion and good sense have recently gone hand-in-hand in the introduction of the practice of slightly looping up the dresses, so as to take the skirt from the ground, thus dispensing it from performing the scavenger's unpleasant duty in the muddy month of November. As we have again touched on out -of-door costume, we may as well observe that the most fashionable paletôt is of silk, and the bournous of cloth.

The bonnet, we grieve to say, is decidedly large; we only hope it may not become enormous.

It is too early to talk of velvet bonnets. We will describe a few well suited to this season.

A blue silk bonnet with a large blue bow on the top, placed rather backwards. A wreath of lilies of the valley commences at the bow, and finishes under the other end of the bow, passing under the curtain. The top of the cap is composed of lilies of the valley. The strings are of white ribbon. This bonnet would exactly suit a blonde aux chéveux dorés.

The following bonnet we recommend for a dark beauty;-- The bonnet itself of maroon crape, with a small black lace veil falling quite over it. Red roses on the left side of the bonnet, and smaller red roses on the top of the cap.

The bonnet we are now about to describe would look well either on a fair or a dark lady;--

A bonnet of white silk covered with black lace, and trimmed outside with bunches of small pink roses. A wreath of the same across the forehead, cap of tulle illusion, and broad pink strings.

The last bonnet we shall mention is made of black tulle, with a loose ponceau silk crown. Across the forehead is placed a bandeau ponceau, and the trimmings within and without are of black lace.

In plate, page 353, the centre figure is in a dress of grey cachmire. The body is high, and buttoned down the front. The cloak is of pensée silk, trimmed with frills and passementerie of the same colour as the cloak. The hat is of grey beaver. The bow in front of it, and the ostrich feather, as well as the bow at the collar, are of the colour pensée, corresponding with the cloak.

Figure 4 is in a dress of maroon silk. The skirt is double. The jacket has basques, and the whole toilette is trimmed with plissé to match. The bonnet is of myrtle green reps. The strings, corresponding in colour, are of broad sarenet ribbon. The cap is of white silk tulle.

The hats of the children are of Tuscan straw. The feathers are those of cocks and hens. Round the crowns are bands of black velvet, with a steel buckle in front. Fig. 1 is in a paletôt of velvet, in blue and black stripes, over a dress of ponceau silk.

Fig. 2 has a jacket á la Suissesse. The skirt has three flounces. The whole dress is of green taffetas antique. The trimming is of black velvet. The sash is of sarsenet, corresponding in colour with the dress.

And now for the illustrations on page 352, representing members of the rising generation enjoying the lingering rays of an autumnal sun.

Fig. 1 is in a poplin dress, brun de Sienne. It is made with a plain body, adorned with bretelles. The chemisette and sleeves are of batiste.

The costume of fig. 2 is the knickerbocker. The material, a cloth of invisible green.

Fig. 3 is in a paletôt, of black gros de Naples, over a violet taffetas dress.

Fig. 4 (a little girl, of seven) has on a frock of grey twill stuff. The straw hat is turned up with crimson velvet, showing off to advantage the redundant auburn curls.

The little boy (forming the fifth figure of this interesting group) is about five years of age. He is dressed in a light green Zouave jacket, of Llama, and his trousers, which only come down to the calf of the leg, are of the same material. The jacket is laced with silk braid of a gold colour.

This youthful party, representing life in its spring, in a scene where Nature's beauties are quickly passing away, is suggestive.

The children are gathering the last fruits of the year, and the chill blasts of November must soon compel them to forsake the garden and grove.

"Farewell to the season of brightness and bloom,
The time is approaching of mists and of gloom;
How fresh but anon seemed the verdure to be,
When it clung to the sprays of the light waving tree.
Frail leaves! In your early extinction is shown
An emblem too sure and too sad of our own;
Our youth passes by, our existence is brief,
And soon we must share in the fall of the leaf!"

But let us not allow the season to render us melancholy. Some flowers are still left; we have the chrysanthemum in great variety; nor have all the birds deserted us, for the prettiest of them, the robin, with his gay crimson waistcoat, cheers us with his presence.

As to our juvenile readers, we dare say many of them are looking forward to the vacation, and to a joyful meeting with parents and relatives.

In the next number, we shall devote particular attention to dancing dresses, and to best suited for juvenile balls and parties.

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