The following links are to different selections with explanations of knitting tecniques from some of the antique Needlework books in my personal collection. They are very helpful in trying to decipher mid 19th-century knitting patterns. I will add more as my collection expands. If you have any that you would like to share please Contact Us and I will add your credited information to this page.

Full Instructions in Needle-Work of All Kinds, Godey's Lady's Book and Magazine, January 1857

Crochet

Position of the Hands in Crochet.-- The crochet hook is held lightly in the right hand, between the thumb and the forefinger. The hook should be kept in a horizontal position, never twisted round in the fingers. The work is held close to the last stitch, between the thumb and forefinger of the left hand; the thread, crossing the fore and middle fingers of that hand, is held firmly between the latter and the third, and a space of about an inch is maintained between the fore and a second fingers. A very slight motion of the left wrist, by which the second and third fingers are drawn back, suffices to lay the thread over the hook, and then a movement of the thumb and forefinger towards the middle on forms the thread so laid into a new chain-stitch. Thus, the chain-stitch is made without any movement of the right hand, which not only gives a much more elegant appearance to the hands, but also enables the lady to work much faster than she would if both hand were constantly moving.

Chain Stitch. -- Make a slip-knot at the end of the cotton, insert the hook in it; place your hands in the position already describe, and make the requisite number of stitches as directed.

Double Chain Stitch.-- This is a stronger and firmer chain-stitch than the ordinary one; and as it resembles braid, is sometimes termed braid-stitch. When you have done two ordinary chain-stitches, besides the one on the needle, insert the hook in the first of those two, draw the thread at once through them both; then continue to insert the hook in the stitch just finished, as well as the loop on it already, and draw the thread through both.

Slip-Stitch.-- Insert the hook in a stitch (having already one loop on it), and draw the thread through both. This stitch is frequently used to pass from one part to another of a round, as by it there is hardly any depth added.

Single Crochet.-- Having one loop on the hook, insert the latter in a stitch or chain, and draw the thread through in a loop. You have now two on the hook. Draw the thread through both.

Short Double Crochet.-- Having one loop on the hook already, pass the thread round it, and insert it in the stitch to be worked. Draw the thread through. You have now two loops on the needle, besides the thread passing round it, which we may call another. Draw the thread through all three at once.

Double Crochet.-- Begin as for the last; but when you have the three loops on the needle, draw the thread through two only. This leaves one besides the newly formed one, Draw the thread through both.

Short Treble Crochet.-- Pass the thread twice round the needle, before inserting it in the stitch. Draw the thread through, which is equivalent to four loops on the hook. Draw the thread through two; which leaves two, and the new one, Draw the thread through all three together.

Treble Crochet.-- Work as for the last, until you have four loops on the hook. Draw the thread, then, through two only at a time, so that it will take a treble movement to get them all off the needle.

Long Treble Crochet.-- Pass the thread three times, before drawing it through the stitch, thus having five loops on the needle. Draw the thread through two at a time, until all are taken off. This will require four movements.

Square Crochet.-- Square crochet is either open or close. Close consists of three consecutive double crochet stitches. For an open square, do one double crochet, two chain, miss two. Thus either takes up three stitches, so that the foundation-chain for any piece of square crochet may be reckoned by multiplying by three, and allowing one stitch over. A piece of fifty squares would require a hundred and fifty one foundation chain.

Long Square Crochet.-- By this method any ordinary square crochet pattern may be done on an increased scale. Allow four chain for the foundation of every square, with one extra. Then a close square will be four treble crochet stitches; and open square, one treble crochet stitch, three chain, miss three.

To Contract an Edge.-- This may be done while working double crochet, treble crochet, or long treble. In any one of these, do half the complete stitch, but, instead of completing it, twist the thread round the needle again, until, on bringing it through the next stitch, you will have as many as before. Finish the stitch in the ordinary way' by this means you have worked two stitches at the bottom, and only one at the top. This stitch is frequently used in forming flowers.

To Enlarge an Edge.-- This is also chiefly done when imitating natural flowers. It may occur with a double, treble, or long treble stitch. In either case wok the next shortest stitch to it, on the side instead of on the chain-stitch. Suppose there is a long treble stitch and you wish to increase the edge. Do a treble crochet stitch, inserting your hook in the side of the long treble; then a double crochet on the side of the treble, and a single on the double. Thus, with one stitch only on the chain, or last row, you would have four at the edge. This is much smoother and flatter than working four stitches in one.

To Join a Thread.-- Always manage to do this in any but chain stitches.

Ribbed Crochet.-- This is always worked backwards and forwards; and is produced by inserting the hook in the back of the chain, instead of the front, as is usual. Finish a stitch with the new thread, leaving a short end of both, of it and the old one, which hold in as you work.

To Work with Several Colors.-- This is always in single crochet. Hold in those threads not in use, at the back of your work, occasionally working over them, so that the loops may not be too long. When a new color is to be introduced, finish the old stitch with it. Thus, if two scarlet three green were ordered, you would work one complete scarlet. Begin the next stitch with the same; but, instead of using scarlet to draw through two loops on you hook, to complete the stitch, you would draw green through. So if only one stitch of a color is ordered, you do not do the perfect stitch, but you finish one, and begin the next with it. Sometimes in working over cord in several colors, it is desirable to have the part covering the cord in one color, and the upper or chain-like part in another. To do this, begin the stitch with one color, and finish with another. The upper half of the stitch is always of the old color. Thus three and a half green one and a half white, would be three perfect green; then begin the  fourth stitch white, but finish it in green. The fifth stitch all white.

To Work Over Cord.-- Frequently done in making mats, baskets, &c. Hold the cord along the top of the work, insert the hook as usual, and bring out the loop of wool, under the cord. Finish the stitch over the cord.

To Work in Both Sides of a Chain.-- Along the top of every line of crochet is the appearance of a chain, or succession of tambour stitches. Usually, the hook is inserted in the front one only of these; but occasionally in both, where strength is likely to be required.

To Work Under a Chain.-- The hook is inserted under, instead of in a stitch; it will then slip backwards and forwards.

A steel crochet needle is generally advisable; -- with expert workers it makes the most even stitches, but an ivory needle is easier to work with.

The second sized netting silk is prettiest for purses.

The coarsest or crochet silk is best adapted for bags, with steel or gold beads.

Where many colors are required in a pattern, and the same do not very frequently occur, it is advisable to introduce them in short lengths instead of carrying on each thread. This should always be attended to when working with chenille.

When beads are used, they are to be strung on the silk with a needle.

The average number of stitches for the length of a purse, in fine silk, is one hundred and sixty. In coarse silk, one hundred and ten.

From ninety to one hundred stitches form the circle of a purse in fine silk,

One hundred and thirty stitches may be taken for the round of a bag in crochet silk.

A table-cover in six-thread fleecy, is generally computed at about four hundred stitches in length.

Borders of flowers may be worked in crochet, but it would be impossible to convey a complete idea even to the most experienced worker, unless accompanied with coloured patterns, which the nature of our illustrations preclude us from offering. But the expert needlewoman will soon perceive the best method of copying any pattern of this description she may desire.